It is not unusual to come across newspapers from France at Viña William Fèvre Chile, for the French make the wines here. The eponymous William Fèvre is indeed not only a Frenchman, but the biggest owner of grand cru vineyards in burgundy's Chablis district. He set up his Chilean subsidiary in 1991, together with Victor Pino, who contributed the land. Joseph Henriot, to whom Champagne Henriot and the Burgundy firm of Bouchard Père & Fils also belong, later bought William Fèvre and so he, became a joint-owner of the Chilean concern.

No concessions
Since William Fèvre makes only white wines in Chablis, obviously that would also be the thrust of the chilean winery. And so it was for the first years, but when the market proved to be more interested in red wines, the emphasis changed accordingly. One result was the adoption of the Australian system of over-grafting: Cabernet Sauvignon on a Chardonnay rootstock, and Pinot Noir on Sauvignon Blanc. At present 70 percent of production is of red wines. Because of the ties with France, the wines have been created 'in the French style' - which in this case means that finesse is given precedence over strength, and the influence of oak is deliberately limited. Nor are there any concessions made over the taste: none of the wines contain residual sugar, even though certain markets might demand this; and the white wines are given no malolactic fermentation.

A variety of reds
A gradual improvement of quality can also be seen in the red wines since 1998. The current Cabernet Sauvignon has breeding: it is lively, supple and boasts an agreeable amount of fruit, particularly ripe blackcurrant. William Fèvre Chile also produces a Carménère: this is a thoroughly likeable wine with elements of green pepper, bitter chocolate and black fruit. In addition the range includes a pleasant Pinot Noir: this is usually smooth when still young, and is characterized by red fruit. To give this wine sufficient concentration, 'green' harvesting is used: well before the actual picking, nearly a third of the still-green bunches are removed. Finally there is a Merlot: a sturdy wine with notes of black fruit and chocolate.